mega swampy: a large, economical swamp cooler powerful enough to cool multiple rooms! - central air swamp cooler

by:HICOOL     2019-08-18
mega swampy: a large, economical swamp cooler powerful enough to cool multiple rooms!  -  central air swamp cooler
Hi, in this Instructable, I will show you how to make a large, efficient and economical swamp cooler that is strong enough to cool down most suburban normal homes.
In the past few weeks, the temperature in my hometown has often reached 100 degrees and even reached a record temperature.
Break the height in several times.
There is no air conditioning in my house.
This made the experience of these weeks rather terrible.
So I started thinking about how to calm down.
I buy/build a traditional air conditioner at a discount immediately as I have neither the hundreds of dollars I need to buy an air conditioner nor the knowledge I need to build it.
Then, I remember one day, when the heat wave was raging, my mom came back from playing the roller derby and said the weather was getting so hot, the Rose City Roller rented a bunch of swamp coolers to cool down the roller derby arena.
I think "there's an idea now. . .
"After looking at a few charts of commercial swamp coolers, it was decided to build one for yourself.
What I ended up building was a lot more powerful than I thought, not only to cool my bedroom, but also to cool most of the rest of my house, A total of about 2,000 square feet of floor space is cooled 20-
30 degrees Fahrenheit
The only downside to the unexpected level of efficiency is that I was deprived of the opportunity to complain to my family about having the only air
A qualified room in the house.
As I sit here and write this, the temperature outside is 94 degrees F, my swamp cooler sits on the dresser next to me and the house is 67 degrees comfortable.
So let's get started!
Here's what you need: for a simplified timber shopping list, you need to buy 2 8'2x 4S, 2 2'x4 '3/8 plywood, and 18' 3/4 "2x8.
Simple: buy a PVC pipe with a length of 3/4.
Also you need a drill bit, jigsaw puzzle, saw (
All you need is a puzzle to get away)
1 "and 1 3/8" spiral drill bit, zipper (
Or a few feet of galvanized steel wire)
, Pliers, wire cutter, hammer, 1/4 "and 1/16" bit, cross screwdriver and star screwdriver, scissors and tool knife.
Just some safety precautions and procedural tips before we start so that no one will commit suicide. READ THEM!
First of all, please note that I will not take you through the "cut 16" length of 2x4.
"When I list what you need at the beginning of each step, the cutting process is implicit.
Also, you can choose whether to do all the cuts immediately before you start, or to do them as needed.
Note, measure twice and cut once.
These pictures have a lot of useful tips in their notes.
Drill pilot holes.
Yes, you can do it yourself.
Drill the screw, but the guide hole is better.
When using a round saw, remember to support both sides of the board you cut so that the wood does not squeeze the saw blade and cause a rebate.
From the first time I used the saw, I still had a scar on my left hand but did not do so.
If I wasn't very lucky, I 'd be worse than the one-inch wound on the back of my hand (
The saw bounced on the wood and flew over my hand and carved only a piece 1/4 deep instead of cutting my hand in half).
If you use galvanized wire instead of zipper to connect things inside the cooler, put a little tape or something at the cutting end of the wire after you screw them together.
They are very sharp after you cut them (
This is what I found a few times hard and that's why when I took the cooler apart and rebuilt it to show you how to put it together I replaced the wire with a zipper).
The wires of the utility pump are waterproof and can be submerged and the wires of the fan cannot be submerged!
Also, please note that the pins are not insulated when the wires of the utility pump are insulated!
It seems obvious to you, I know, but the reminder doesn't hurt you.
We will build a base for the cooler first.
Start by taking 23 "2x4 and 2 16" 2x 4S and screw them together with the 3 "screws seen in the first picture.
2 screws are used for each joint.
Once you do this, place the 16 "by 26" plywood on top of the "C" shape you just made.
Fix it with 3 evenly spaced 1/5/8 screws and 4 screws for each short side.
Now you should show the base in the third image.
Now take your 16 pieces of "24" plywood and cut a rectangle of 1/2 "3 1/2" from one corner of each plywood.
After completion, attach the side as shown in the second picture.
As shown in figure 3, put 6 screws using the zigzag pattern to avoid wood splitting.
You should now attach the sides as shown in figure 4.
Now you need to cut a hole in the surface of the cooler (
Not yet attached)
Insert the fan.
First, put your fan in position so that it will be centered horizontally and the edge of the fan is 2 "below the top of the base "(
26 "side will cross).
Now track the edge of your fan with a pencil.
Now, use the 1 "spiral drill bit to drill holes somewhere within the area you need to cut.
Using the puzzle, start cutting from the hole you just drilled, first cut to the edge of the fan hole, and then cut all the way along the edge.
Once you drop to the last few inches, be sure to support the cut part, but be sure that your support arm is not in the way of the saw.
That's too bad.
Now is the time for us to stick the thing we just made in front of the cooler.
The front is the side of 23 "2x4 (
The back of the "C" shape we did in the first step).
First, put the cooler down and make the front end facing up.
Then, twist in the zigzag pattern into 8 of the 1 5/8 "screws (
Like when we connect the sides)
Follow the bottom of the face as shown in the first image.
Now that you have done this, put the cooler on one side of it and put one of the 3 1/2 "2x 4S under the plywood in the top right corner (
At the front when it stands up instead of lying down).
Now put 2 of the 1 5/8 "screws through the plywood into the 2x4 below, as shown in the second picture.
Now, turn the cooler, make the front face up again, and pass the two screws through the top right corner of the plywood and place them in the 2x4 block as shown in figure 4.
When you put the screw in, you may need to put some weight on your face to keep it in line.
Once you're done one side, repeat the process with the other.
Now we need to make a small shelf to support the PVC pipe that will circulate the water.
To do this, use 3 "screws to attach a water plate on each side so that the top of each plate is 1/2 below the top of the cooler ".
It's a bit annoying to connect these boards because you have to fix them in place with one hand and screw in the screws with the other.
I can only say the pilot hole is your friend.
Once you have the rack installed, turn the cooler to keep the front facing away from you and drill holes on the rack on the right using a 3/8 spiral bit.
You want the center of the hole to be 2 1/2 "in" from the back and 1 1/2 "in" from the side of the shelf "(
3/8 "plywood not included).
This step is really simple.
Put your cooler up and stand behind.
Tilt it to the left now.
Now take the remaining pair of 3 1/2 "2x 4S and connect them to the edge next to the base using the 3" screw, as shown in the figure.
This will ensure that your basin is in the right position to avoid leakage.
Next, you want to make this thing with your PVC parts.
Cut everything first (
Careful measurement)
Press it tightly together and it will combine perfectly.
After gluing the pipe together, start 2 "in" from each of the 90-degree elbows and drill a 1/16 "hole per 1/2" in the 3 long flat sections of the pipe ".
Make sure there are no holes at both ends, though, otherwise it will leak everywhere.
If you don't understand what I mean, put the pipe assembly in the swamp cooler (next step)
See which parts of the tube are directly on the shelf.
You don't want to drill any holes that will spray water on the shelves.
This is another very simple step: Insert the PVC assembly into the frame.
First, use the Threaded Adapter to pass the end through the hole you drilled on a shelf.
You may have to cut off a bit of the adapter with your tool knife because many of them have annoying nubs on the sides that are not suitable to go through the holes.
Cutting off these will not damage the adapter.
After insertion (read: forced)
Through the pipe of the hole, you will notice that the shelf supports most of the pipe.
However, when the vertical overflow pipe leads down to the bottom of the cooler, we need to give it a little extra support.
Put a 5/8 screw on the shelf next to the overflow pipe, but keep it 3/8 high.
Now put a zipper around it and keep the overflow pipe in place as shown in the third image.
Now we need to add a fan to our cooler.
To do this, first look at your fans.
If it has a base, find out how to remove it.
Just smash the base into pieces with a hammer until it becomes Savage
It is OK to force the closure here (
Just don't break the actual fan)
, We don't need the base of anything, so remove it in any way necessary.
I was lucky because I just had to break a few beautiful plastic covers and screw the screws down.
Now, drill along the edge of the fan at 4 points with uniform spacing, as shown in Figures 2 and 3.
Once you do this, place a shorter screw in each hole closest to the back of the fan, leaving about 3/4 of the extension, as shown in the fourth picture.
Now insert the fan from the back of the cooler so that it goes through the hole you cut for it.
When you insert the screw into the remaining four holes outside the surface of the cooler, keep the fan in the appropriate position, as shown in Figures 5 and 6, and lock the fan in the appropriate position.
Drill a hole on one side of the cooler to get the power cord out.
Use 1 "spiral drill bit.
It doesn't matter where you put the hole.
Cut the air filter into 2 15 1/2 "15" pads and 1 15 1/2 "13 1/2" pad using scissors.
Welding wire fences using galvanized steel plates, making brackets 28 for the newly cut pads by cutting two fences measuring 15 "by 28" and a fence measuring 13 1/2 "by 28 ".
Fold them in half and cut off some wires so you can bend them inward and stick them to the cooler pad.
Then, put your cooler pad into the frame as shown in images 3 and 4.
As shown in figure 5, protect them with a zipper.
These boards force more air through the filter by blocking the path around the filter.
The end of the tilt is to put any water placed on it back into the basin, not on the floor.
As shown in Figure 1, cut two 13 "2x4 s with a 45 degree tilt end.
As shown in Figures 2 and 3, connect them to the side of the cooler directly below the pipe closest to the front.
Two 3 "screws are used for each.
After connecting them, drill a 1/4 hole on the left plate and fix the overflow pipe on it using the zipper shown in figure 3.
Now fix the cooler pad on the pipe using a zipper, as shown in the figure.
Make sure the pads are centered so that they are directly below a row of holes below the pipe.
This step is explained visually better, so I will not provide lengthy written comments to compliment the images.
Pick up your storage box and use your puzzle to cut everything except the bottom 6 1/2.
Now slide the basin under the cooler pad.
You might want to take the edge (
Or run your tool knife around it)
When you finish cutting to remove any sharp or jagged pieces of plastic.
First, place your multi-function pump in the corner of your basin and under the end of the PVC pipe, which has a Threaded Adapter.
Put the pump rope through the holes under the cushion and you drill for the fan rope.
When you pass the wire through the hole, on the front edge of the cooler, drill a 1/4 hole right next to the wire hole.
Now, take a zipper tie and tie the rope tightly to the side of the cooler.
Make sure there are enough wires inside the cooler and the wires can be tilted up to the holes.
You need to do this because otherwise the wire will grab the water and guide the water flow through the wires, the outside and the floor.
You don't want.
Now, measure the distance from the thread adapter on the pump to the end of the PVC pipe.
Now cut a piece of 1/2 "Poly tube" about 1/2 shorter than the distance ".
Now push the compression fit adapter to both ends of the polygon pipe to make the assembly as shown in Figure 1.
Now look at the end of the adapter.
You should see a rubber gasket with a thin screen covered in the center.
Take your pliers and pull the washing machine out with them.
Now tear the screen off the center of the washing machine with pliers.
Now, put the washing machine back into the adapter without a screen.
Repeat for another adapter.
The screen greatly limits the flow of water through the pipe, which will cause your pump motor to burn out.
Upon completion, drill a 1/16 "hole" on the Poly tube above the end of one of the adapters ".
This will prevent the air pump from sticking to death.
Don't worry if you don't know what that is because it won't happen now (
If you're curious, what does it say in the pump instructions).
Now screw the adapter to the closest to the hole you just drilled into the pump and screw the other adapter to the PVC pipe.
The gas lock hole faces the inside so that it does not spray water onto the floor. Almost done!
Now, connect your pair 1x8 s to the top of the cooler as shown.
The latter one should be connected with 1 5/8 screw, while the former one should be connected by drilling 1/4 of the hole on it and hammer 4 small nails through the hole, which will become a movable cover, you can adjust the fan through it. Yay! We're done!
"How do I use it now. . . ?
"To use your swamp cooler, put it in front of the open window, fill the basin with 5" water, plug it in, and open the fan.
In order to cycle the cooled air in your house, open several windows elsewhere in your house.
The swamp cooler will breathe in air through the window in front of it and drain the air from another open window in the House, circulating cold air in the process.
Unlike traditional AC devices, the swamp cooler runs on an open system, which means that in order for them to work, you have to give them a steady stream of hot air to use to vaporize the water.
That's why we put the cooler in front of the open window and leave the other windows open.
Do not let the water level in the cooler below 2 ", otherwise you may let the pump overheat.
Check the water level before each opening.
Pour water every few weeks (or as needed)
Wash the mat every few months (
Again, or as needed)
To avoid your swamp cooler starting to smell like a swamp.
Now have a good time in your new air-
A house with conditions!
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